3 Best Dog Brushes for Alaskan Malamutes

Here’s our honest take, from one dog-obsessed family to another: Alaskan Malamutes are breathtaking. That plush double coat, that proud stance, that goofy grin after a long walk—10/10 would cuddle again. But that same gorgeous coat? It’s a full-time hobby. If you’ve ever watched tufts of undercoat tumble across your living room like tiny snowdrifts, you know what we mean.

The good news is you don’t have to fight the fluff alone. With the right tools and a simple routine, you can keep your Malamute’s coat healthy, comfortable, and (yes!) cleaner. Below we’ll show you the three brushes we actually recommend for Malamutes, how to use them step-by-step, and answers to the questions we get all the time from fellow northern-breed parents.

Why brushing a Malamute matters (and what makes their coat unique)

Malamutes have a classic double coat: a dense, cottony undercoat for insulation and a harsher outer coat (guard hairs) for protection. That undercoat “blows” seasonally—meaning it sheds in impressive waves—usually twice a year. If loose undercoat isn’t removed, it tangles into mats, traps moisture, and can irritate the skin. Regular brushing:

• Releases impacted undercoat before it mats
  
  
• Lets air reach the skin (goodbye hot spots and itchies)
  
  
• Keeps the outer coat shiny and weather-ready
  
  
• Cuts down on the fluff drifting through your home
  

One quick myth-buster: Don’t shave a Malamute. Their coat is their climate control system. Shaving can damage texture, reduce UV/heat protection, and make regrowth patchy. Brushing is the answer—not clipping the coat off.

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The Top 3 Brushes for Alaskan Malamutes

We’ve grouped these in the order we suggest using them in a normal brushing session. If you only grab one tool today, start with the slicker. If you add a second, make it the deshedding tool. The metal comb is your “quality control” finisher.

1) Large Slicker Brush (best everyday brush for fluff & surface tangles)

If your Mal falls asleep when you brush, there’s a good chance you’re using a slicker. The long, fine pins catch loose undercoat, lift out surface tangles, and “fluff” the outer coat so it looks full and beautiful.

Why we like it for Malamutes

• Covers big areas fast (important on a large dog)
  
  
• Reaches into dense coat but glides over the skin when used properly
  
  
• Fantastic for feathering on legs, chest ruff, and those pants in the back
  

When to use it

• Every routine session
  
  
• First pass before any deeper deshedding work
  
  
• After bathing/drying to smooth and fluff
  

Quick slicker tips

• Use light, quick strokes with your wrist relaxed.
  
  
• Brush with the coat to start; switch to line-brushing (small sections) for tricky spots.
  
  
• If your dog has sensitive skin, try very short, gentle strokes and check the skin every few minutes.
  

2) Deshedding & Dematting Tool (for heavy undercoat and stubborn mats)

Think of this as your undercoat “release” tool. On Malamutes, it’s a game-changer during coat-blow seasons. The safely-sharpened teeth help break up impacted undercoat and loosen small to medium mats without hacking the healthy guard hairs.

Why we like it for Malamutes

• Targets the dense undercoat where the shed lives
  
  
• Reduces coat bulk so your slicker can finish cleanly
  
  
• Designed to work on mats behind the ears, under the collar, and on the pants
  

When to use it

• During spring and fall blow-outs (or whenever you’re pulling out handfuls of fluff)
  
  
• On problem areas: behind ears, armpits, collar area, tail base, and pantaloons
  

Safety first

• Work slowly with short, outward strokes—never saw aggressively on the skin.
  
  
• Hold the hair at the base (between your fingers) to reduce tugging.
  
  
• If the skin looks pink or your dog fusses, take a break and switch back to the slicker.
  

3) Stainless Steel Metal Comb (for finishing & “quality checks”)

This is the unsung hero. A comb doesn’t remove mountains of hair, but it tells the truth about whether your brushing actually reached the skin. If the comb glides from root to tip without snagging, you’re done. If it catches, you know exactly where to go back and work a little more.

Why we like it for Malamutes

• Finds sneaky knots the slicker can miss
  
  
• Leaves feathering neat and separated
  
  
• Keeps tails and ear fringes tidy without puffing them out too much
  

How we finish

• Comb sensitive areas (behind ears, elbows, hocks, belly) first—gently.
  
  
• Switch between the wider and finer side of the comb as needed.
  
  
• A final comb-through after the slicker gives that polished, show-dog look.

Alternative Option: Self Cleaning Slicker Brush for Sensitive Skin and Puppies

If you’re brushing a puppy or have an adult Malamute with extra-sensitive skin, we recommend trying a self-cleaning slicker brush. The pins are designed to be gentler on the skin while still grabbing loose undercoat and light tangles, making it a perfect starter brush for young dogs who are just getting used to grooming. Plus, the push-button self-cleaning feature makes it super easy to clear out hair between strokes—no more fighting with a packed brush while your wiggly pup gets impatient.

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Step-by-step: How to brush an Alaskan Malamute

Use this flow once or twice weekly during “normal” times and more often during coat-blow. Adjust to your dog’s tolerance. It’s better to do 10–15 focused minutes a few times a week than one epic marathon.

Before you start

• Set the vibe. Pick a quiet place, put a towel or non-slip mat down, and keep treats handy.
  
  
• Dry coat only. Brushing a wet, impacted undercoat can tighten tangles. If you’ve bathed your Mal, dry thoroughly first.
  
  
• Check the skin. Look for redness, hot spots, or anything unusual. If you see something concerning, pause and consult your groomer or vet.
  

The routine

1. Quick body check (1–2 minutes)
   Run your hands over your Mal’s body. Find thick areas, rough spots, or lumps of undercoat (they often hide behind the ears, under the collar, tail base, pants, and chest ruff).
   
   
2. First pass with the slicker (5–10 minutes)
   Grab the Large Slicker Brush. Start at the shoulders and work backward in long, gentle strokes. Keep your wrist light—no digging. This lifts the loose stuff so the deeper work is easier.
   
   
3. Line-brushing the “big three”
   For Malamutes, the major tangle zones are behind the ears, armpits, and pants. Part the hair with your free hand to expose a thin “line” of coat. Brush that line with the slicker until it moves freely, then move up a little and repeat. Small sections = less tugging and faster, cleaner results.
   
   
4. Deshed with control (5–10 minutes)
   Switch to the Deshedding/Dematting Tool. On impacted areas, use short, outward strokes. You’re easing out undercoat, not raking the skin. Hold the coat base to minimize pull. If you hit a knot, gently “chip away” from the outside in; don’t yank through the center.
   
   
5. Tackle small mats safely (as needed)
   For small mats behind the ears or in the pants, use the deshedding/dematting tool like a tiny pick: short strokes, working from the edge of the mat outward. Alternate with a few slicker strokes to clear loosened hair. If a mat is tight against the skin and won’t budge, stop—better to let a pro groomer take it out than risk the skin.
   
   
6. Finish with the metal comb (3–5 minutes)
   Use the Metal Comb to “audit” your work. It should pass smoothly from skin to tip. Anywhere it snags, go back with the slicker for a few light strokes, then retest with the comb.
   
   
7. Detail the tail & feathering
   Comb the tail from tip to base (support the hair so it doesn’t pull). Slicker lightly through leg feathering for that clean, separated look. A quick comb afterward keeps things tidy.
   
   
8. Check the collar zone & chest ruff
   These trap undercoat like Velcro. Lift the ruff, deshed in short, outward strokes, then slicker and comb to finish.
   
   
9. Praise, treat, done
   Lots of love and a small treat at the end teaches your Mal that brushing = good things. Consistency beats perfection.
   
   
10. Cleanup tip
     Keep a small trash bag nearby. Empty the slicker and deshedding tool often—clean pins work better and tug less.
    

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How often should you brush a Malamute?

• Non-shedding months: 2–3 times per week (10–20 minutes per session)
  
  
• Coat-blow season (spring/fall): Daily or every other day (15–30 minutes)
  
  
• Post-adventure: Quick once-over after hiking, snow days, or swims to catch burrs and tangles early

If the coat feels tight, the skin looks pink, or your dog is wiggly and over it—stop and continue tomorrow. Short and positive beats long and miserable.

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How to Bathe an Alaskan Malamute (Without Turning Your House Into a Splash Zone)

Bathing a Malamute is a whole event. With that thick double coat, you can’t just spritz, lather, and rinse like you would with a short-haired pup. Done right, though, bath time not only keeps your dog clean but also helps release loose undercoat and makes brushing easier afterward. Here’s how we do it:

Step 1: Prep before the bath

• Brush first. Always give your Mal a thorough brushing before you bathe. Wetting tangles will make them tighten into mats, which are a nightmare to remove later.
  
  
• Pick your spot. A large tub, walk-in shower, or outdoor dog bathing station works best. Lay down a non-slip mat so your Mal feels secure.
  

Step 2: Use the right water temperature

Aim for lukewarm water—not hot, not freezing. Think baby bath, not spa day. Malamutes can be sensitive to heat, so cooler is better than warmer.

Step 3: Choose a gentle shampoo

For a coat this dense, you’ll want a shampoo that cleans without stripping natural oils and can rinse out completely. We recommend this moisturizing dog shampoo. It’s formulated to clean deeply, soothe the skin, and leave the coat soft and shiny without heaviness—perfect for northern breeds with thick coats.

Step 4: Wet thoroughly

This is the tricky part: Mal coats are water-resistant. It may take a few minutes of steady rinsing to get water all the way down to the skin. Start at the back and work your way forward. Don’t forget the chest ruff, pants, and tail.

Step 5: Lather up

Apply shampoo and gently massage it into the coat, working section by section. Focus on the belly, tail base, and collar area—these spots trap the most dirt and oils.

Step 6: Rinse, rinse, rinse

Rinse longer than you think you need to. Any leftover shampoo can irritate skin or cause itchiness. You’ll know you’re done when the water runs completely clear and you don’t feel any slickness on the hair.

Step 7: Drying is just as important as washing

• Towel dry first to soak up as much water as possible.
  
  
• If you have a high-velocity dryer (and your dog will tolerate it), use it to blow out water and loosen more undercoat. Always keep the nozzle moving and avoid sensitive areas.
  
  
• If air-drying, make sure your Malamute stays indoors until completely dry—damp undercoat can cause hotspots or skin irritation.
  

Step 8: Brush again once dry

When the coat is fully dry, go back in with your slicker brush and comb. You’ll be amazed how much undercoat comes out after a bath.

Pro tip: Malamutes don’t need frequent baths. Once every 6–8 weeks is plenty, unless your pup gets into something especially messy. Overbathing can strip natural oils and make the coat harder to manage.

FAQs: Alaskan Malamute brushing

Can I shave my Alaskan Malamute to reduce shedding?

We don’t recommend shaving. The double coat protects your Mal from heat, cold, and sun. Shaving can damage the coat and reduce its protective functions. Regular brushing with a slicker and deshedding tool is the safe, effective way to cut shedding.

What does “blowing coat” mean, and how do I handle it?

It’s the big seasonal shed where the undercoat releases in clumps. You’ll see tufts coming out in handfuls. During this time, brush daily:

1. slicker to lift loose hair,
   
   
2. deshedding/dematting tool for the impacted undercoat,
   
   
3. metal comb to finish.
   A bath and thorough dry (if your dog tolerates it) can also help loosen undercoat—just brush after drying.
   

Should I bathe before or after brushing?

If the coat is impacted, brush first to loosen tangles (water can tighten mats). After bathing and drying, do a quick slicker pass and finish with the comb.

How long should a brushing session take?

Most Malamutes do well with 10–20 minutes. Add time during coat-blow, but keep sessions positive. Break big jobs into two or three mini-sessions.

What tool should I use behind the ears and on the pants?

Start gently with the slicker in small, line-brushed sections. If you feel resistance or see formed tangles, use short, outward strokes with the deshedding/dematting tool, then finish with the metal comb to confirm it’s truly out.

My Malamute hates brushing. Any tips?

Bribe shamelessly. Seriously—make brushing the gateway to good things. Use a non-slip mat, work in very short sessions, and reward frequently. Start with easy areas (shoulders/back) and build tolerance before tackling pants or armpits. End on a win.

Is a slicker brush enough?

It’s the everyday hero, but for Malamutes, pairing it with a true deshedding/dematting tool is what saves your sanity during coat-blow. The metal comb is your final check that you actually reached the skin—super helpful for northern coats.

How do I know if I’m brushing too hard?

If the skin looks pink, your dog flinches, or hair breaks instead of releasing cleanly—lighten up or switch tools. With slickers, think “tickle,” not “scrub.” With the deshedding tool, think “chip away,” not “saw.”

Can I use a high-velocity (HV) dryer to help?

If your dog is comfortable with it and you know how to use one safely, an HV dryer can blow out loose undercoat after a bath. Always keep the nozzle moving, avoid sensitive areas, and never blast directly into ears, eyes, or open skin. Brush again after drying for best results.

What’s the best order to use the tools in a regular session?

1. Large Slicker Brush 
   
   
2. Deshedding/Dematting Tool on problem areas
   
   
3. Metal Comb to finish and check your work
   

Will brushing reduce shedding in my house?

Yes—because you’re removing loose hair on your schedule, not your couch’s. Combine regular brushing with routine vacuuming and occasional baths, and you’ll see a big difference.

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Quick coat map: hot spots to never skip

• Behind ears: mats form fast—line-brush with the slicker, detail with the deshedding tool if needed, then comb.
  
  
• Armpits: sensitive skin—use light pressure and short strokes.
  
  
• Under the collar and harness points: rotate gear and brush here often.
  
  
• Pants & tail base: undercoat builds up—deshed in short, outward strokes.
  
  
• Chest ruff: dense and dramatic—slicker first, then comb.
  

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The Freshly Bailey Malamute brushing routine (snapshot)

1. Slicker everywhere to lift and fluff
   
   
2. Deshed/demat the thick zones in short, gentle strokes
3. Comb to confirm you reached the skin and to neaten feathering

Do this 2–3x per week normally, and daily during coat-blow. Keep it positive, keep it consistent, and you’ll keep that incredible Malamute coat doing what it was designed to do—protect, insulate, and look downright majestic.